hello all .. been pretty dead on this robin ..... i got a question about fa=
iry rings at teh Garden Web forum related to hosta ..... i look forward to =
your theories on my theories ....thanks in advance... ken
--------------->>>>><<<<<----------------
i have had a little of the fairy ring problem ...
as you know i moved 1500 potted hosta 65 miles SW .... i had the pure sand =
tilled to about 12 inches.. these farmers don't fool around.. lol ...
i then tipped the peat based medium out of the pot and stuck the pot shaped=
wad of medium plus the hosta in the ground... i did not break up the mediu=
m ...
what a nightmare ... over time the divergence of the sand to the medium .. =
i suspect the sand wicked all the water out of the medium ... no matter how=
much i watered ....
medium and bigger plants didn't seem to care .. and grew right out of the p=
ot of medium under it ... and into the sand ...
smaller plants either perished... or now.. if aggressive enough .. have the=
se perfect rings of hosta consistent with the size of the pot they were bro=
ught in ..
i really wonder if the divergence of soil types is the cause ... i wonder i=
f it is related to soil amendment and making too good a soil under the host=
a ... i wonder if you have two different soil types ... whether it can impa=
ct the hosta themselves ....
regardless .... i take a hand shovel .. and dig out the dry rotted crown ma=
terial ... as deep as i can .. leaving the ring of hosta intact for the mos=
t part ... and put native soil back into the hole ... and believe it or not=
.. toss what is the peat based potting medium to the side ... and proceed t=
o water the heck out of it ... i have read articles about peeps stuffing hi=
ghly amended organic material back into the center .... but since my soil i=
s all sand anyway ... i suspect this would be contraindicated on my soil ..=
.
i presume ester will have ideas about my theory ... and i look forward to s=
uch ...
what do the rest of you think .... did you all over amend your planting hol=
e.. and now are experiencing the same ... or do you think it is just a func=
tion of a hosta past its maturity ... and something i will have to look for=
ward too with the rest of them .. ????
ken
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Ken, the problem of water movement within the potted medium and then within=
the surrounding soil (sand in your instance) for the type of replanting yo=
u did is commonly seen for soil mix products that have different water-lovi=
ng/water-rejecting (or hydophilic/hydrophobic) materials blended together.
Peat mixes have both inherent water-holding and water-rejecting properties =
that can be overcome chemically with wetting agents known as surfactants. T=
hen if you add superabsorbents into the mix (as is commonly done) they also=
balance this function differently.For potted plants it can work once plant=
and water amounts are in balance.
Now when you put THAT soil mix/plant profile into the ground without changi=
ng those characteristics and then subject that plant "mass" to temp/water d=
ryness issues normally found in the soils over a season, the center areas p=
robably can't keep enough water and vitality and will slowly die out. The o=
utside areas where they can grow new feeder roots will grow and expand/surv=
ive.
Another point you may not have thought too important but now seems to come =
to mind is the drainage issue: if you indeed you poured copius quantities o=
f water on them after planting in the ground, the water had to drain and th=
us "move" away if the plants didn't get soggy. This means the sand literall=
y did wick the water away: once soil drainage paths open up, unless you dis=
turb them they remain that way.
Alternative: the old Banyai apporach was (and still is) to break up the roo=
t mass, to free up the roots and soil mix to allow them to grow in the new =
soil. Amending the soil first is the premier way to ground them best for gr=
owth.
Larger plants have more reserves to fight moisture stress.
Food for thought.
Bruce
On 7/20/07, Ken Marek
wrote:
hello all .. been pretty dead on this robin ..... i got a question about fa=
iry rings at teh Garden Web forum related to hosta ..... i look forward to =
your theories on my theories ....thanks in advance... ken
--------------->>>>><<<<<----------------
i have had a little of the fairy ring problem ...
as you know i moved 1500 potted hosta 65 miles SW .... i had the pure sand =
tilled to about 12 inches.. these farmers don't fool around.. lol ...
i then tipped the peat based medium out of the pot and stuck the pot shaped=
wad of medium plus the hosta in the ground... i did not break up the mediu=
m ...
what a nightmare ... over time the divergence of the sand to the medium .. =
i suspect the sand wicked all the water out of the medium ... no matter how=
much i watered ....
medium and bigger plants didn't seem to care .. and grew right out of the p=
ot of medium under it ... and into the sand ...
smaller plants either perished... or now.. if aggressive enough .. have the=
se perfect rings of hosta consistent with the size of the pot they were bro=
ught in ..
i really wonder if the divergence of soil types is the cause ... i wonder i=
f it is related to soil amendment and making too good a soil under the host=
a ... i wonder if you have two different soil types ... whether it can impa=
ct the hosta themselves ....
regardless .... i take a hand shovel .. and dig out the dry rotted crown ma=
terial ... as deep as i can .. leaving the ring of hosta intact for the mos=
t part ... and put native soil back into the hole ... and believe it or not=
.. toss what is the peat based potting medium to the side ... and proceed t=
o water the heck out of it ... i have read articles about peeps stuffing hi=
ghly amended organic material back into the center .... but since my soil i=
s all sand anyway ... i suspect this would be contraindicated on my soil ..=
.
i presume ester will have ideas about my theory ... and i look forward to s=
uch ...
what do the rest of you think .... did you all over amend your planting hol=
e.. and now are experiencing the same ... or do you think it is just a func=
tion of a hosta past its maturity ... and something i will have to look for=
ward too with the rest of them .. ????
ken
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Hey Bruce how u been?
The gels that absorb a great deal of water by weight
also do not want to give up that water or once
hydrated the gel doesn't return the water. Most are
well aware of surfactants in potting media but I had
never considered using a little soap to water plants
in the soil.
Ken, consider using a little soap in your watering
system it will not hurt your plants period.
Bruce, I have found and discussed the value of getting
the roots of newly planted hosta in contact with the
new soil and mainly the soil organisms is the most
valuable thing one can do.
I assert that the old adage the first year they sleep
the second year they creep and third year they leap is
because that is how long it takes a new planting to
get intimately involved with the soil organisms. You
or your momma=92s planting method accomplished this
sooner.
--- Lois Banyai
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Butch Ragland
Jury Verdict Reporter
___________________________________________________________________________=
_________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dsummer+activities+for+k=
ids&cs=3Dbz
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
geez lois... aka bruce ....
I THINK YOU SAID I WAS RIGHT .... lol ....
if only i could rewind the clock .. get all the voluteers to come back .. a=
nd shake the promix off. . i wouldnt have lost a couple hundred hosta ...
if i were to ask you to restate this in one paragragh, so a non-scientific =
lay person could REMEMBER it .... how would you phrase it... or how would y=
ou reduce it to a rule of thumb.. a green thumb ... for a relative 'newbie'=
,,,, it is probably entwined in the old Banyai approach ... i know what yo=
u said.. lets make sure the rest do ....
hope all is well with the family and kids ... ken
Ken, the problem of water movement within the potted medium and then within=
the surrounding soil (sand in your instance) for the type of replanting yo=
u did is commonly seen for soil mix products that have different water-lovi=
ng/water-rejecting (or hydophilic/hydrophobic) materials blended together.
Peat mixes have both inherent water-holding and water-rejecting properties =
that can be overcome chemically with wetting agents known as surfactants. T=
hen if you add superabsorbents into the mix (as is commonly done) they also=
balance this function differently.For potted plants it can work once plant=
and water amounts are in balance.
Now when you put THAT soil mix/plant profile into the ground without changi=
ng those characteristics and then subject that plant "mass" to temp/water d=
ryness issues normally found in the soils over a season, the center areas p=
robably can't keep enough water and vitality and will slowly die out. The o=
utside areas where they can grow new feeder roots will grow and expand/surv=
ive.
Another point you may not have thought too important but now seems to come =
to mind is the drainage issue: if you indeed you poured copius quantities o=
f water on them after planting in the ground, the water had to drain and th=
us "move" away if the plants didn't get soggy. This means the sand literall=
y did wick the water away: once soil drainage paths open up, unless you dis=
turb them they remain that way.
Alternative: the was (and still is) to break up the root mass, to free up t=
he roots and soil mix to allow them to grow in the new soil. Amending the s=
oil first is the premier way to ground them best for growth.
Larger plants have more reserves to fight moisture stress.
Food for thought.
Bruce
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
hey butch
skipping the rest.. and only focusing on the soap part, noted below ...
i do have a REAL CHEAP INJECTOR on my drip lines .... no clue as to
injection rates ...
i have a real problem with rust clogging the CHEAP drip line over time [eve=
n
with a filter to reduce pushing sand thru the lines] ... i wonder if the
soap will reduce or wash out the rust ... or .. to coin a term.. slicify th=
e
new drip tape and reduce the the accumulation of the rust ...
dish soap??? what do you recommend??? antibacterial better than not.. lol
... are hosta inflicted with any bacterial disease ... but i digress ... lo=
l
and .... will it clean the voles and chipmonks that are driving me insane
....
a real shot in the dark if you have an answer ....
thanks
ken
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Ivory dish soap is fine and you don't need much,
somewhat less than you would use to do dishes. All it
does is break the surface tension just like removing
grease from a pan. Guess and take a little of the
water coming out and put drop on something that it
should bead up on and if it spreads out instead of
making the normal bead then you have enough. Keep
reducing until it beads or gets its surface tension
back.
Absolutely will not hurt the plants but I don't think
it will help the rust.
Sorry, don't think it helps HVX or nematodes.
--- Ken Marek
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Butch Ragland
Jury Verdict Reporter
___________________________________________________________________________=
_________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who kn=
ows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=3Dlist&sid=3D396545433
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Ken, Soil preparation is still the best overall approach to improving the t=
ransplants chance to grow best but it obviously takes time if you don't hav=
e good soil, not only for soil biolology to activate but also for drainage.
Three years Butch is about right, based on my current microbial experience.=
Our business is bio-augmenting the beneficial microbes to speed up (short=
en) this time line.
DO NOT USE antimicrobial soap - are you listening to what we are saying? Yo=
u kill ALL bacteria, and we are trying to foster the growth of benefical mi=
crobes.
Ivory dish soap works well to lower the surface tension and improve wettabi=
lity. Whether it impacts HVX is unknown.
The best way to check the needed soap dose is to run some hose water on the=
ground, watch it disperse into the soil. Put same water in bucket, add dro=
p or two of Ivory , mix well and do same pour test. Should be visual differ=
ence (goes into soil much faster) to be effective.
Had nightmare of hybridizers this summer: one of the close neighbors with a=
beautiful high mature tree canopy (great spot for hosta) had let me put in=
a 20 X 50 garden plot of my mother's hybrids and other rare hosta from my =
move down to Virginia. For 4 years they have done well while I grew my fast=
growing poplars and other shade trees on my new property for shade.
A builder on a nearby lot hired a blind (we think) backhoe operator to dig =
a house foundation on a nearby lot. We woke up to find several dump trucks =
of soil on the rare plant garden - the operator thought he was doing us a f=
avor, as he thought "they" (the hosta plants) were weeds that needed to be=
covered.
I spent +20 hours scraping and digging the dirt off the beds, then Memorial=
Day dug >300 clumps out and put them in cold storage until I could clean t=
hem up and replant.
Lost a few, surprising how hardy they are. NOT the way I wanted to spend my=
summer.
Family AND 10 month old grandson (oldest son Joel and Michelle's first) do=
ing well.
Bruce
On 7/21/07, butch ragland
Ivory dish soap is fine and you don't need much,
somewhat less than you would use to do dishes. All it
does is break the surface tension just like removing
grease from a pan. Guess and take a little of the
water coming out and put drop on something that it
should bead up on and if it spreads out instead of
making the normal bead then you have enough. Keep
reducing until it beads or gets its surface tension
back.
Absolutely will not hurt the plants but I don't think
it will help the rust.
Sorry, don't think it helps HVX or nematodes.
--- Ken Marek
om>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Butch Ragland
Jury Verdict Reporter
___________________________________________________________________________=
_________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who kn=
ows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=3Dlist&sid=3D396545433
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
"Three years Butch is about right, based on my current
microbial experience. Our business is bio-augmenting
the beneficial microbes to speed up (shorten) this
time line."
Bruce
Without knowing how you are augmenting I can say that
some things will work. The big question is how long
does it take for beneficial microbes to populate the
roots which is where they must be to work in the
symbiotic way that allows or better stated creates
growth.
Open this microscopic photo of the organism
surrounding the root. The microbes must be located
around the roots and they must be there long enough to
establish a balanced system.
Now comes your bio-augmented microbes, they must
migrate to the roots and survive the competition with
existing microbes. If they accomplish all this then,
the ones the plant needs (I=92m sure you understand the
concept of plants =93selecting for=94 what microbes the
plant needs and visa versa) then they (microbes) will
live there.
Now what I see as valuable would be identifying
microbe=92s known to benefit hosta and delivering those
that may not be available in the native soil being
planted. For those really REALLY serious obsessive
compulsive nut bag hosta growers, I would take a quart
of soil and at least one root from a hosta growing
well and make AACT (aerated activated compost tea) and
inoculate a new or existing hosta.
All this still takes 3 years or more. IMHO
This photo shows a root with all the roots attendant
symbiotic microbiotic community allowing or causing it
to grow.A
border=3D"0" alt=3D"Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at
Photobucket">
Butch Ragland
Jury Verdict Reporter
_____________________________________________________________________=
_______________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dgraduation+gifts&cs=3Db=
z
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Butch, you can easily demonstrate in the lab symbiotic microbial growth in =
a matter of weeks under the lab controlled conditions of temp, moisture, pH=
and aeration.
In the ground it may be three years by natural augmentation, but we can eas=
ily see (especially those active today in the mycorhizial application busin=
ess) plant stress management in just a couple of weeks. Root dips are the m=
ost productive way - wetting with the active spores.
The key is the right blend of active and needed natural bacilus, fungi and =
mycorhizial spores. Putting dead microbes/spores into the ground (the most =
common reason for getting no results) will not help.
I have been asked if hosta need a special microbial blend and don't have an=
easy answer. We have seen great increases in hosta size/vigor with benefic=
al bacteria/fungi treatments, comparable to what we see in trees and shrubs=
(our main landscaping markets). The hosta test programs have been quite li=
mited as the market potential isn't that great (nut case hosta growers not =
withstanding!), since hosta can and will tolerate a wide range of condition=
s before they croak.
Where the market opportunity may be is in improving potted plant transplant=
ing (aka Ken Marek style) with the risks of loss being greater than the cos=
ts of not treating.
Ken, superabsorbant polymers have many functions, but you are correct that =
once hydrated they do not like to give up their water. And the factor littl=
e understood is when the swollen gels began to dry out on the surface they =
form a hard shell which the root hairs can't penetrate.
Not saying all a marketing gimmick but have to consider the quality and sys=
tem formulation to gain best results.
Bruce
On 7/23/07, butch ragland
"Three years Butch is about right, based on my current
microbial experience. Our business is bio-augmenting
the beneficial microbes to speed up (shorten) this
time line."
Bruce
Without knowing how you are augmenting I can say that
some things will work. The big question is how long
does it take for beneficial microbes to populate the
roots which is where they must be to work in the
symbiotic way that allows or better stated creates
growth.
Open this microscopic photo of the organism
surrounding the root. The microbes must be located
around the roots and they must be there long enough to
establish a balanced system.
Now comes your bio-augmented microbes, they must
migrate to the roots and survive the competition with
existing microbes. If they accomplish all this then,
the ones the plant needs (I'm sure you understand the
concept of plants "selecting for" what microbes the
plant needs and visa versa) then they (microbes) will
live there.
Now what I see as valuable would be identifying
microbe's known to benefit hosta and delivering those
that may not be available in the native soil being
planted. For those really REALLY serious obsessive
compulsive nut bag hosta growers, I would take a quart
of soil and at least one root from a hosta growing
well and make AACT (aerated activated compost tea) and
inoculate a new or existing hosta.
All this still takes 3 years or more. IMHO
This photo shows a root with all the roots attendant
symbiotic microbiotic community allowing or causing it
to grow.A
border=3D"0" alt=3D"Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at
Photobucket">
Butch Ragland
Jury Verdict Reporter
______________________________________________________________________=
______________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dgraduation+gifts&cs=3Db=
z
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Bruce...do you have any specific brand/product of microbes we could try?
Josh
In The Country Garden & Gifts
Specializing in Hostas and Water Gardens
http://www.inthecountrygardenandgifts.com
> Butch, you can easily demonstrate in the lab symbiotic microbial growth i=
n
e
> the most productive way - wetting with the active spores.
> The key is the right blend of active and needed natural bacilus, fungi an=
d
> mycorhizial spores. Putting dead microbes/spores into the ground (the mos=
t
t
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
Every study on the subject of microbial enhancement
improves growth unless of course you reach some
inbalance in organisms, yet they will find equilibrium
on their own in a hurry. Sometimes that is not fast
enough to save the plant.
The main point is such things need to be studied as
your company is doing and further they should be
studied at university level which they are. Usually
advances come out of crops with greater economic value
and can be used with something like hosta.
A great deal of growing "knowledge" comes out of pot
culture and doesn't translate easily to growing in the
soil. How many people put perlite, vermiculite, water
gels and even fertilizer into the soil for no value at
all.
Good luck with your work and of course finding
something of value for pot culture would have great
economic value.
--- Lois Banyai
src=3D"http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y51/wilddog_202/SST_LR_small1.jpg"
___________________________________________________________________________=
_________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_on_mail&p=3Dgraduation+gifts&cs=3Db=
z
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Butch Ragland
Jury Verdict Reporter
___________________________________________________________________________=
_________
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.=
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=3Dlist&sid=3D396545469
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
,,, that we would all like to grow superior plants .
I use chemicals as " Fire Extinguishers " . I haven't moved into the 'nut=
case' category ( YET ! ) ,,, but having seen the optimal benefit of a n=
aturally enriched growing environment , I'm becoming increasingly reluctan=
t to upset the equilibrium I've worked so hard to obtain by putting out sm=
all fires .
Side Bar :
Mark Zilis was out for the first time ,
measuring clump & leaf &
vein counts .
He mentioned ( more than twice )
that his measurements exceeded his " personal best " .
( Bruce ! , can we assume that our MidWest clay based soils could stand a=
n inoculation ?
We might all have to chip in
to buy Mark some new
Fruit 'o the Loom/BVD's !!! )
I'm done having fun . I'm with Josh ( altho he has more discressionary (=
sp?) funds ) , what do we do Next ?
Bruce...do you have any specific brand/product of microbes we could try?
Josh
> Butch, you can easily demonstrate in the lab symbiotic microbial growth i=
n
e
> the most productive way - wetting with the active spores.
> The key is the right blend of active and needed natural bacilus, fungi an=
d
> mycorhizial spores. Putting dead microbes/spores into the ground (the mos=
t
t
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
We study soil types and needless to say, very few soils CAN'T use improved =
soil biology. Illinois/Indiana/Iowa qualify in some areas as the best overa=
ll. You know where it is, when you grow plants/trees there.
I will send the recommended microbial products that Warren Pollock cited in=
our last DVHS Newslettter, as he has had experience with them.
In the areas of bioinsecticides, we are working on a new product (a natural=
fungus) that kills black vine weevil larvae and tick larvae. If you have i=
nterest send me a private note.
Bruce
On 7/24/07, Brian & Virginia
,,, that we would all like to grow superior plants .
I use chemicals as " Fire Extinguishers " . I haven't moved into the 'nut=
case' category ( YET ! ) ,,, but having seen the optimal benefit of a n=
aturally enriched growing environment , I'm becoming increasingly reluctan=
t to upset the equilibrium I've worked so hard to obtain by putting out sm=
all fires .
Side Bar :
Mark Zilis was out for the first time ,
measuring clump & leaf &
vein counts .
He mentioned ( more than twice )
that his measurements exceeded his " personal best " .
( Bruce ! , can we assume that our MidWest clay based soils could stand a=
n inoculation ?
We might all have to chip in
to buy Mark some new
Fruit 'o the Loom/BVD's !!! )
I'm done having fun . I'm with Josh ( altho he has more discressionary (=
sp?) funds ) , what do we do Next ?
Bruce...do you have any specific brand/product of microbes we could try?
Josh
> Butch, you can easily demonstrate in the lab symbiotic microbial growth i=
n
e
> the most productive way - wetting with the active spores.
> The key is the right blend of active and needed natural bacilus, fungi an=
d
> mycorhizial spores. Putting dead microbes/spores into the ground (the mos=
t
t
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
The Winter 2007 Delaware Valley Hosta Society Newsletter, available online =
at the DVHS web site, under "DVHS Newsletter", archived [at bottom of web =
page] "Winter 2007" page 7 lists Warren's comments on M-Roots microbial spo=
re blend.
Check the web for "M-Roots" to get further information.
Bruce
On 7/24/07, Lois Banyai
wrote:
We study soil types and needless to say, very few soils CAN'T use improved =
soil biology. Illinois/Indiana/Iowa qualify in some areas as the best overa=
ll. You know where it is, when you grow plants/trees there.
I will send the recommended microbial products that Warren Pollock cited in=
our last DVHS Newslettter, as he has had experience with them.
In the areas of bioinsecticides, we are working on a new product (a natural=
fungus) that kills black vine weevil larvae and tick larvae. If you have i=
nterest send me a private note.
Bruce
On 7/24/07, Brian & Virginia < skaggsbv@worldnet.att.net
,,, that we would all like to grow superior plants .
I use chemicals as " Fire Extinguishers " . I haven't moved into the 'nut=
case' category ( YET ! ) ,,, but having seen the optimal benefit of a n=
aturally enriched growing environment , I'm becoming increasingly reluctan=
t to upset the equilibrium I've worked so hard to obtain by putting out sm=
all fires .
Side Bar :
Mark Zilis was out for the first time ,
measuring clump & leaf &
vein counts .
He mentioned ( more than twice )
that his measurements exceeded his " personal best " .
( Bruce ! , can we assume that our MidWest clay based soils could stand a=
n inoculation ?
We might all have to chip in
to buy Mark some new
Fruit 'o the Loom/BVD's !!! )
I'm done having fun . I'm with Josh ( altho he has more discressionary (=
sp?) funds ) , what do we do Next ?
Bruce...do you have any specific brand/product of microbes we could try?
Josh
> Butch, you can easily demonstrate in the lab symbiotic microbial growth i=
n
e
> the most productive way - wetting with the active spores.
> The key is the right blend of active and needed natural bacilus, fungi an=
d
> mycorhizial spores. Putting dead microbes/spores into the ground (the mos=
t
t
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------
Phoenix Hosta Robin -- moderated by Carolyn Schaffner
http://thegardensite.com/info-garden_forums.htm information to manage your =
subscription.
