but I don't understand.... I thought Daffies split
there bulbs and restarted underground...
Oh my ...
Anji
--- Dorsett
> Pods? Seedheads? Plant out the seeds...and,
> several years from
> now...new daffs.
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I usually wait at least two months, until the foliage is flopping around
enough to damage itself by folding over in multiple layers on the ground
and I know the vascular system has been damaged. Some few leaves will
stay efficient beyond that time...but for most, the energy won't get
back to the bulb. I read one study that stated next year's bloom
potential won't be harmed if they've managed to store at least 80% of
the energy they need...and that's my excuse.
In April and May, to compensate for my hard hearted ways, I try to prop
the leaves up with mulch or fencing to help keep the leaves in good
shape as long as possible...and as much surface area displayed as long
as possible.
Barb in Southern Indiana Zone 5/6 dorsett@blueriver.net
A root is a flower that disdains fame.
The bulb-like growths are a seed pod. The usual advice is to cut them =
off.
Gerry Strey
Madison, Wisconsin
Pods? Seedheads? Plant out the seeds...and, several years from
now...new daffs.
Crocuses are neat because the foliage will be almost gone when their
seedpods emerge.
Barb in Southern Indiana Zone 5/6 dorsett@blueriver.net
A root is a flower that disdains fame.
Last week there was a little discussion re: the length of time it takes
daffodil foliage to die back. My question is: do you have to wait for it
to completely turn yellow, or is there a minimum length of time, say 6
weeks, that it must remain, and then be removed without harming next
year's blooms?
Thanks,
Barbara and the CatPack (Dylan, Blue, Jet, and FuzzButt)
in Collinsville, VA, Zone 7b (where we've had 4 inches of very badly
needed rain in the last 48 hours, with more promised.)
In this house, cat hair is a condiment.
CyberSalad: My Digital Pursuits at http://www.banders.com
Garden Pursuits at http://www.gardenpursuits.com
Kitchen Pursuits at http://www.kitchenpursuits.com
Wait until the seeds mature, June. I think the pod will be dry and brownish
when the seeds are mature. Then break the pod open and strew the seeds
around. Margaret L
Hi Barb,
My daffs have bloomed and now at the end of each stalk as the
flower dries up there is a bulb-type growth. Can this be the
plants putting forth little bulbs? All of them have done this.
Best,
June
Thanks. Mine are still standing up straight and tall ;-) Guess I'll wait a
while longer.
Barbara and the CatPack (Dylan, Blue, Jet, and FuzzButt)
in Collinsville, VA, Zone 7b
In this house, cat hair is a condiment.
CyberSalad: My Digital Pursuits at http://www.banders.com
Garden Pursuits at http://www.gardenpursuits.com
Kitchen Pursuits at http://www.kitchenpursuits.com
Dorsett wrote:
Hi Gerry and Barb -
Neat!! Time flies - I will have a lot of seeds then. I must
have about 50 daffs along that side.
These daffs were a very pale yellow on the outside petals
and a dark yellow center. Very pretty.
Would I break open the pod when I plant them or just pop in
the seed pods? Never tried this before. I've seen them lying
about in the university garden area here. The master gardeners
clip them but let them lay on the ground. They don't seem to plant
them or anything. Curious.
Best,
June
Hi Anji,
They do that too. :)
I was wondering about the seed pods. June
Barb,
Another thought I had on the daff seed pods --
The amaryllis has seed pods and I think I remember
that George planted the seeds and they produced more
of the amaryllis.
I think they would have to dry out and then be shallowly
planted to catch the sun. I have a spot where I could try
this.
I have called the Garden Hot line here and they will
fax me anything they can find on it. There must be
something on them.
Best,
June
Hi Margaret,
I just got my fax! Pretty cool. One can grow the daffs, lilies,
and even cyclamen from seed. Crocuses and Reticulata irises have
capsules formed at or just above ground level which are difficult
to see.
This method of propagation produces a large number of bulbs that
initially are free from any viruses (except those transmitted by
seed) unlike division, which passes on any disease present in
the parent bulb to the young plants.
Downside: As Barb suggests - most bulbs take form three to five
years to reach mature flowering size from seed.
snip, snip. A nice little bit on Cardiocrinum. What is that? :)
The fax gives a reasonable five-step procedure on propagation.
So the fax is about collecting seeds, when to sow, seed soil mix,
sowing seeds, care of seedlings, removing seedlings from their pots,
etc.
Woodland species. Many shade-loving bulbs grow better in a soil
mix that contains some mold. Here leaf mold is used with part peat
or compost and fertilized soil. Erythronium is mentioned.
Wish I knew what book they were using. I might pop over at lunch.
Very interesting to this curious gardener.
Best,
June
Nebraska has a guide for growing amaryllis, including how to start
seeds:
http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/Horticulture/g188.htm
Pick pods as soon as they turn yellow and start to open.
Remove seed and allow to dry for a few days.
Plant seed in part shade, well drained.
When you have seedlings, gradually increase light
until they're getting full sun.
(I bet you can use something to protect them during early growth...and
remove it as they get stronger.)
Barb in Southern Indiana Zone 5/6 dorsett@blueriver.net
A root is a flower that disdains fame.
Hi Barb and thank you!
As I'm cleaning up my yard, I noticed that I had all these seed
pods on the daffs. Further, I'm cleaning up some brush area too,
so I thought I could just direct sow these pods and have nice
daffs there. I got about 50 of these pods. :)
I will wait until I think they are ready to split and then
open them and cover with a bit of soil. Nothing ventured,
nothing gained, but the soil should be layered in sand, soil,
seeds, and more sifted light soil. A bit labor intensive unless
you have prize bulbs.
I have some seeds - flower and vegetable -- and I'm
going to sow those seeds too. Some of these are old but
something might come up. I'm not going to fuss much --
It can always be grass. But if it yields a few cantaloupe,
some cukes, some daffs, marigolds, etc. so much the better.
Any and all surprises (except poison ivy) are welcome.
Best,
June
On Thu, 17 May 2001 08:39:47 -0400 Barbara Anders
wrote:
This is one of those discussions that involves the physiological terms
of "sources" and "sinks." The green parts of a plant (daffodil
foliage) is photosynthetically active and in the presence of sufficient
sunlight it manufactures food (carbohydrates) for the plant. The first
requirement of photosynthesis is to make enough food to keep the active
plant alive. This is a maintenance requirement. If excess
carbohydrates are manufactured they are stored. Some are stored in the
leaves and some are stored in the bulb. Carbohydrates are continued to
be produced until there is a limiting environmental factor (drought,
lack of nitrogen, etc) or until the foliage begins to die. As the
foliage begins to die (this process is known as senescence) the stored
carbohydrates in the leaves are transfered to the bulb. If enough
carbohydrates are moved to the bulb there will be sufficient food, and
hence energy, the following spring for flower production.
Anything the gardener can do to maximize photosynthetic activity, such
as maximizing light levels, keeping the plant watered, keeping the
plant supplied with nutrients, etc., will maximize carbohydrate
production and increase the chances of flowering the following year.
Allowing the leaves to completely brown assures all possible stored
carbohydrates will be moved to the bulb. Is this foliage draining of
carbohydrates absolutely necessary for flowering the following year?
It depends. A daffodil growing in full sun with adequate resources
probably doesn't need every bit of stored food in the leaves. It has
probably produced enough prior to leaf senescence. However, plants
that are in the shade, or under nutritional or drought stress, probably
need every bit of extra food they can send to the bulb.
It's another benefit vs risk equation. The benefit of taking the
daffodil foliage off early is the landscape looks nicer. The risk is
less food sent to the bulb. It's all a matter of putting enough food
away for next year.
Love that plant physiology.
----------------------
Bob (watching the skies for a cloud or two) Stewart
Southern Maryland (USDA Zone 7)
rs72@umail.umd.edu
Good Good so I haven't lost it compleetly yet... ;)
Anji
--- "june m. dean"
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