From my experience, it seems to me you could *throw* a cane of blackberries
on the dirt and it would form roots
dirt and roots would pop out....
Seriously, we have hundreds of blackberry bushes all over the property....
they are more of a weed than a berry plant (i'm constantly pulling them out
of my beds *youch!*), though I did make triple berry preserves from some of
them this year. I much prefer loganberries, they don't have thorns! :)
What's with your neighbour anyway, Carolyn? That seems like a rather odd
demand to receive a cutting! Have you offerenc him an organic tomato yet?
I have some chardonnay grapes here on the ranch and need to know the best
way to root them, and the best time to take cuttings. Any grapers here?
For that matter I would like to do the same with my pomegranate tree.
I have rooting instructions for grapes that should also work with
pomegranates. See my web site for information on how to get a set of
instruction.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, unusual fruits, writing, more, at http://www.hevanet.com/lonrom
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In the spring simply bend some of the new growth to the ground and place a rock on top to hold it in place. Should have a new start in a short time.
> I have some chardonnay grapes here on the ranch and need to know the
> bestway to root them, and the best time to take cuttings. Any grapers here?
Joy Williams wrote:
> I have some chardonnay grapes here on the ranch and need to know the best
> way to root them, and the best time to take cuttings. Any grapers here?
> For that matter I would like to do the same with my pomegranate tree.
Joy
Grapes are quite easily grown from hardwood cuttings taken when the
vines are pruned. However, growing them on their own roots is only
successful in areas where the root pest Phylloxera doesn't occur. If the
land is infested the grapes need to be grafted on to resistant stocks.
If your area is Phylloxera-free, take cuttings of ripened wood in
January or early February (think I have got the months right in
reverse!) about pencil thickness and around 25Cm (say 10 inches) long.
If you can't plant them immediately it is important that they do not dry
out. They can either be kept in damp sawdust, or wrapped well in
Polythene and stored in a fridge. Try to get them planted however while
the soil is still moist. Before planting soak them in water for a day
which will improve rooting.
Plant them in any good deep soil. I have rooted some myself in the edge
of vegetable beds and others in a flower border. If it is convenient I
suppose you could root them where they are to grow. Bury about two
thirds of the cutting in the ground. If the exposed buds have already
started to grow and you may experience the odd late frost you can
protect the new growths by piling sawdust round them. Cuttings will
usually be rooted and ready to move by the following winter after they
have gone dormant, when they will need the growth they have made cut
well back. Keep only the stronger of the two shoots and shorten this to
about two buds.
Moira
--
Tony & Moira Ryan
Wainuiomata,
New Zealand (astride the "Ring of Fire" in the SW Pacific).
