Deanne Dale on wed 2 mar 05

--0-1597639398-1109809254=:64350

The advice from someone in the cooperative extension office here was to set aside all the cut poison oak in a pile, in an out-of-the-way spot, and let it dry out on its own.

I was told to be careful in hot dry summer months because some part of the poison oak plant (I missed which part, in the process of writing notes) gets carried around by the winds and can land anywhere - great!

He also said to apply a paste of Fels Naptha soap on any infected/blistered areas of your skin, and it will draw out the toxin from your skin.

On another subject, a woman at the same office (not one of the master gardeners) told me deer generally don't like herbs, that they are too aromatic and oily - does that match anyone else's experience? She was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control - thyme and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer or they won't have a chance to do any good.

Deanne

--0-1597639398-1109809254=:64350

The advice from someone in the cooperative extension office here was to set aside all the cut poison oak in a pile, in an out-of-the-way spot, and let it dry out on its own. 

I was told to be careful in hot dry summer months because some part of the poison oak plant (I missed which part, in the process of writing notes) gets carried around by the winds and can land anywhere - great!  

He also said to apply a paste of Fels Naptha soap on any infected/blistered areas of your skin, and it will draw out the toxin from your skin.  

On another subject, a woman at the same office (not one of the master gardeners) told me deer generally don't like herbs, that they are too aromatic and oily - does that match anyone else's experience?   She was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control -  thyme and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer or they won't have a chance to do any good.

Deanne

Deanne Dale on wed 2 mar 05

--0-271074473-1109823229=:49017

You're right, it is better to go slowly, observe and study the land before making changes. But then, on the other hand, mine is a hillside lot and there is fairly deep erosion in one section that Iooks as though it should be addressed ASAP.

Not that I'll know what that something or combination of things is right away, but it's the one of the first things I want to deal with, so I'm in the early stages of that learning curve. The area is primarily grasses with some trees. There are a few oaks and pines along the bottom of the lot that appear to be holding the rest of the soil/hillside nicely. But if there ever was a tree doing that job where the ravine is it's gone now, and the roots of one oak are just beginning to become exposed.

There is also a flat sunny area at the top of the lot that's sheltered from the strongest winds but still gets breezes, I think a good part of the garden may go there. I have entirely stopped reading fiction in favor of gardening and home-building books!

Deanne

Patricia Ruggiero wrote:
> I was told to be careful in hot dry summer months because some part of the
poison oak plant (I missed which part, in the process of writing notes) gets
carried around by the winds and can land anywhere - great!

Perhaps the fine roots, after they're dry. Possibly bits of dried leaves.
Throwing it into a wooded area would minimize wind disturbance, but,
truthfully, I have to say it is possible to become overly anxious about
this. I've thrown lots of PI not only into the woods but also at the edges
of the woods, where I suppose it could have gotten blown around, but we've
never come down with mysterious, spontaneous rashes.

> He also said to apply a paste of Fels Naptha soap on any infected/blistered
areas of your skin, and it will draw out the toxin from your skin.

And doesn't that comport with what Lee Ann said, about using laundry soap?

> She was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control - thyme
and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer or
they won't have a chance to do any good.

Do you need a ground cover in this area? I had the impression it was a
wooded area. Nevertheless, I advise developing a master plan for your
property before purchasing seeds or plants and making other significant
investments.

Pat

--0-271074473-1109823229=:49017

>I was told to be careful in hot dry summer months because some part of the
poison oak plant (I missed which part, in the process of writing notes) gets
carried around by the winds and can land anywhere - great!

Perhaps the fine roots, after they're dry. Possibly bits of dried leaves.
Throwing it into a wooded area would minimize wind disturbance, but,
truthfully, I have to say it is possible to become overly anxious about
this. I've thrown lots of PI not only into the woods but also at the edges
of the woods, where I suppose it could have gotten blown around, but we've
never come down with mysterious, spontaneous rashes.

>He also said to apply a paste of Fels Naptha soap on any infected/blistered
areas of your skin, and it will draw out the toxin from your skin.

And doesn't that comport with what Lee Ann said, about using laundry
soap?

> She was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control - thyme
and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer or
they won't have a chance to do any good.

Do you need a ground cover in this area? I had the impression it was a
wooded area. Nevertheless, I advise developing a master plan for your
property before purchasing seeds or plants and making other significant
investments.

Pat

Patricia Ruggiero on wed 2 mar 05

Deanne wrote:

> The advice from someone in the cooperative extension office here was to =
set
aside all the cut poison oak in a pile, in an out-of-the-way spot, and =
let
it dry out on its own.

Well, now, that sounds sensible. I feared they would recommend some =
killer
spray.

> I was told to be careful in hot dry summer months because some part of =
the
poison oak plant (I missed which part, in the process of writing notes) =
gets
carried around by the winds and can land anywhere - great!

Perhaps the fine roots, after they're dry. Possibly bits of dried =
leaves.
Throwing it into a wooded area would minimize wind disturbance, but,
truthfully, I have to say it is possible to become overly anxious about
this. I've thrown lots of PI not only into the woods but also at the =
edges
of the woods, where I suppose it could have gotten blown around, but =
we've
never come down with mysterious, spontaneous rashes.

> He also said to apply a paste of Fels Naptha soap on any =
infected/blistered
areas of your skin, and it will draw out the toxin from your skin.

And doesn't that comport with what Lee Ann said, about using laundry =
soap?

> On another subject, a woman at the same office (not one of the master
gardeners) told me deer generally don't like herbs, that they are too
aromatic and oily - does that match anyone else's experience?

I don't have evidence, one way or another. Perhaps others on this List =
can
say.

> She was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control - =
thyme
and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer or
they won't have a chance to do any good.

Do you need a ground cover in this area? I had the impression it was a
wooded area. Nevertheless, I advise developing a master plan for your
property before purchasing seeds or plants and making other significant
investments.

When Howard and I first saw this property, we knew right away where the =
veg
garden would go: the broad, gently sloping side "lawn" (read: green =
stuff)
with its southern exposure. Beyond that, we made no large changes for =
two
years, giving ourselves time to live with the landscape, seeing how we
walked through it, used it. I've spent lots and lots of time looking at =
the
different areas, studying their composition, considering how they =
function
as wildlife habitat, and mulling over the likely consequences of our
changes.

Pat

Deanne Dale on thu 3 mar 05

--0-1112410228-1109859668=:9244

There could be some basis to the recommendation to specifically use Fels Naptha, though - my experience with it in doing laundry is that it's excellent at getting out oil-based stains, which other products/soaps I've tried don't remove.

Deanne

Susan Setzler wrote:
that is the way you were supposed to do it years ago. Now "they" say to
rinse with cold water first. Warm to hot water will just spread the
oils around on your skin. rinse really really well with the cold water
then wash with whatever soap you have on hand

susan

> And doesn't that comport with what Lee Ann said, about using laundry
> soap?

--0-1112410228-1109859668=:9244

that is the way you were supposed to do it years ago. Now "they" say to
rinse with cold water first. Warm to hot water will just spread the
oils around on your skin. rinse really really well with the cold water
then wash with whatever soap you have on hand

susan
On Mar 2, 2005, at 10:06 PM, Patricia Ruggiero wrote:

>
> And doesn't that comport with what Lee Ann said, about using laundry
> soap?

Deanne Dale on thu 3 mar 05

--0-1279177710-1109860185=:19382

I've seen rosemary growing up here and used as garden borders, so that does okay through the winter, and have both sage and rosemary growing by the back door here where I'm renting.

Thanks for the confirmation about deer not caring for strong flavored herbs. After my mother's experience with mint taking over her garden near Chicago I don't think I want to try that particular one, though, except in pots! Apparently there are a lot of varieties of thyme, that was the herb the woman at the extension office most strongly suggested trying.

Deanne

Susan Setzler wrote:
a woman at the same office (not one of the master
Probably good advice. Deer don't like strong flavored stuff. onions.
garlic, chives and the oily strong flavored herbs, but can you grow
rosemary through the winter? if so I am so jealous!! Thyme would be
good for ground cover they wouldn't eat. tarragon, sage, mints. if you
can control it.
susan

> Deanne
--0-1279177710-1109860185=:19382

a woman at the same office (not one of the master
> gardeners) told me deer generally don't like herbs, that they are too
> aromatic and oily - does that match anyone else's experience?   She
> was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control -  thyme
> and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer
> or they won't have a chance to do any good.

Probably good advice. Deer don't like strong flavored stuff. onions.
garlic, chives and the oily strong flavored herbs, but can you grow
rosemary through the winter? if so I am so jealous!! Thyme would be
good for ground cover they wouldn't eat. tarragon, sage, mints. if you
can control it.
susan
>
> Deanne

Deanne Dale on thu 3 mar 05

--0-1697664231-1109860674=:18655

I wet the stain and then rub the Fels Naptha into it, and if I haven't used it on that particular garment/fabric before I don't leave it in long the first time, just a second or two, in case it also takes out the dye. And then rub it in again a second time if the fabric color hasn't faded and the stain also needs some more work.

For some stains though, on fabric/dye that is stable, I've left it in for several minutes before rinsing it out. It's great at getting oil stains out of polyester - when I was working in an office and had a lot of no-care polyester clothes I loved that!

Deanne

MARGARET LAUTERBACH wrote:
Do you shave it or rub it over the stains, Deanne? Thank you, Margaret L

--0-1697664231-1109860674=:18655

Do you shave it or rub it over the stains, Deanne? Thank you, Margaret L



> There could be some basis to the recommendation to specifically use Fels
> Naptha, though - my experience with it in doing laundry is that it's
> excellent at getting out oil-based stains, which other products/soaps I've
> tried don't remove.
>
> Deanne
>

MARGARET LAUTERBACH on thu 3 mar 05

For erosion control, I think you need a variety of plants that have
different types of root systems. Some may be shallow, some at an
intermediate depth and some deep. Margaret L

Susan Setzler on thu 3 mar 05

I think is an old wive's tale, you just need to wash the oils off the
skin before the skin reacts with the blisters, then it is too late.
what toxin did he mean? the oils?
She
Probably good advice. Deer don't like strong flavored stuff. onions.
garlic, chives and the oily strong flavored herbs, but can you grow
rosemary through the winter? if so I am so jealous!! Thyme would be
good for ground cover they wouldn't eat. tarragon, sage, mints. if you=20=

can control it.
susan

Susan Setzler on thu 3 mar 05

that is the way you were supposed to do it years ago. Now "they" say to
rinse with cold water first. Warm to hot water will just spread the
oils around on your skin. rinse really really well with the cold water
then wash with whatever soap you have on hand

susan

MARGARET LAUTERBACH on thu 3 mar 05

Do you shave it or rub it over the stains, Deanne? Thank you, Margaret L

Susan Setzler on thu 3 mar 05

certainly won't hurt to try

susan

Susan Setzler on thu 3 mar 05

I do envy you!!

There are dozens, if not 100's of different kinds of thyme. variegated,=20=

different flavors, coconut, oregano thyme, nutmeg, creeping, upright,
lemon,

susan

garden
> near Chicago I don't think I want to=A0try that particular one, =
though,
> except in pots!???? Apparently there are a lot of varieties of =
thyme,

Mary Ann Mikulski on thu 3 mar 05

In a message dated 3/2/05 11:14:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dkdale@SBCGLOBAL.NET writes:

<< But then, on the other hand, mine is a hillside lot and there is fairly
deep erosion in one section that Iooks as though it should be addressed ASAP. >>

I don't know how they'll grow in your area, but the daylily, Kwanso, spreads
fast, and has tough interlocking roots that should give good erosion control.

Mary Ann

Sue Jennings on thu 3 mar 05

--0-1477658585-1109880848=:81087

Deanne, Sage will have to be protected in the winter or it dies back and may not return. I keep mine in pots in protected spots and move if need be. I am zone 9. Plant some thyme- english, lemon varigated, wooly, etc.-, several different varieties, lavender ( several kinds- english is best for medicinal and a wonderful scent and is hardy, french harder to grow, and spanish looks nice with huge buds, society garlic, oregano, white yarrow, calendula it will die back, but should come back, and maybe some scented geraniums ( check to see if they would make it). I would also add lots of bulbs for very early spring color. You are going to have to test what deer will eat in your area. Every area is different in Calif. for their tastes. Hope this helps. You are just a few hours north of Sacramento.
Sue
Plant Spirit Herbals in No. Calif.

Deanne Dale wrote:
I've seen rosemary growing up here and used as garden borders, so that does okay through the winter, and have both sage and rosemary growing by the back door here where I'm renting.

Thanks for the confirmation about deer not caring for strong flavored herbs. After my mother's experience with mint taking over her garden near Chicago I don't think I want to try that particular one, though, except in pots! Apparently there are a lot of varieties of thyme, that was the herb the woman at the extension office most strongly suggested trying.

Deanne

Susan Setzler wrote:
a woman at the same office (not one of the master
Probably good advice. Deer don't like strong flavored stuff. onions.
garlic, chives and the oily strong flavored herbs, but can you grow
rosemary through the winter? if so I am so jealous!! Thyme would be
good for ground cover they wouldn't eat. tarragon, sage, mints. if you
can control it.
susan

> Deanne
--0-1477658585-1109880848=:81087

I've seen rosemary growing up here and used as garden borders, so that does okay through the winter, and have both sage and rosemary growing by the back door here where I'm renting. 

 

Thanks for the confirmation about deer not caring for strong flavored herbs.  After my mother's experience with mint taking over her garden near Chicago I don't think I want to try that particular one, though, except in pots!   Apparently there are a lot of varieties of thyme, that was the herb the woman at the extension office most strongly suggested trying.  

 

Deanne

Susan Setzler <christie@PSKNET.COM> wrote:

a woman at the same office (not one of the master
> gardeners) told me deer generally don't like herbs, that they are too
> aromatic and oily - does that match anyone else's experience?   She
> was suggesting some ground cover herbs for erosion control -  thyme
> and rosemary - so of course they also have to be unattractive to deer
> or they won't have a chance to do any good.

Probably good advice. Deer don't like strong flavored stuff. onions.
garlic, chives and the oily strong flavored herbs, but can you grow
rosemary through the winter? if so I am so jealous!! Thyme would be
good for ground cover they wouldn't eat. tarragon, sage, mints. if you
can control it.
susan
>
> Deanne

Deanne Dale on thu 3 mar 05

--0-2109421206-1109889049=:92268

That's what I was thinking - a sort of erosion control "guild". Mary Ann mentioned a type of lily, which would be a step or two up in size from ground covers. I'm hoping Bountiful Gardens will have some suggestions, or could point me in the right direction for doing further research. I seem to recall that they're listed in the back of Gaia's Garden as a source of information about guilds ----- although I should know better than to trust my memory.

Deanne

MARGARET LAUTERBACH wrote:
For erosion control, I think you need a variety of plants that have
different types of root systems. Some may be shallow, some at an
intermediate depth and some deep. Margaret L

--0-2109421206-1109889049=:92268

For erosion control, I think you need a variety of plants that have
different types of root systems. Some may be shallow, some at an
intermediate depth and some deep. Margaret L

Deanne Dale on thu 3 mar 05

--0-1662158884-1109889928=:78309

That's one of the plants that was mentioned by the extension office, I'll look it up - thanks!

Deanne

Carol Jensen wrote:

My father successfully combated a deep erosion gulch (rainwater from a hill behind the house) with vinca minor. I think it took much too long for the vinca to take hold (3-4 years) but it was also growing in pure gravel. Mine grew in pure city compost and took about 6 months to cover a large area!

Anyway, the vinca held back the water enough that it didn't rush down any longer. I suppose the roots held it back.

Carol

--0-1662158884-1109889928=:78309

My father successfully combated a deep erosion gulch (rainwater from a hill behind the house) with vinca minor. I think it took much too long for the vinca to take hold (3-4 years) but it was also growing in pure gravel. Mine grew in pure city compost and took about 6 months to cover a large area!

Anyway, the vinca held back the water enough that it didn't rush down any longer. I suppose the roots held it back.

Carol

Laurie Mandigo-Stoba & Ian Stoba on thu 3 mar 05

Don't tell my sage this! It's never died back yet, and I believe I'm
in pretty close to the same area. Our microclimate may be a tad
warmer, but not much. I think I lost one scented geranium this year,
and an apricot sage (really a mint?). Otherwise things did okay.

Regards, Laurie
Mill Valley, CA (Marin County, No. CA)

> Deanne,=A0 Sage will have to be protected in the winter or it dies =
back

Susan Setzler on thu 3 mar 05

My sage comes back and I'm in 7 or less! it needs to have a new start=20=

every several years, though. that is culinary sage.

susan

> Deanne,=A0 Sage will have to be protected in the winter or it dies =
back

MLuskin on thu 3 mar 05

I once had a mohair fleece for spinning into yarn that
was beautiful, but I got poison oak working on it.
The goat whose fleece it was had been into poison oak.
I washed the fleece w/Fels and got PO again, so I got
rid of the fleece. I have lost my faith in Fels
Naphtha and would never deliberately expose myself to
PO.

=====
Merry Luskin, Oakland CA
Reference librarian and handspinner
Great site: Librarians' Index to the Internet
http://lii.org

__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/

Deanne Dale on thu 3 mar 05

--0-947339711-1109912964=:62509

Wouldn't it! I thought I would contain a small chocolate mint plant at one point by planting it in a pot first and then setting it on the ground in the garden. Made absolutely no difference - in a matter of days it had about 8 thick 'feelers' finding their way out of the pot and towards the ground.

Deanne

Patricia Ruggiero wrote:
Oooh, yes, MINT. That'd cover her property in no time!

Pat
--0-947339711-1109912964=:62509

Oooh, yes, MINT. That'd cover her property in no time!

Pat
>
> tarragon, sage,
> mints. if you
> can control it.
> susan

Patricia Ruggiero on thu 3 mar 05

Oooh, yes, MINT. That'd cover her property in no time!

Pat

Carol Jensen on thu 3 mar 05

My father successfully combated a deep erosion gulch (rainwater from a hill behind the house) with vinca minor. I think it took much too long for the vinca to take hold (3-4 years) but it was also growing in pure gravel. Mine grew in pure city compost and took about 6 months to cover a large area!

Anyway, the vinca held back the water enough that it didn't rush down any longer. I suppose the roots held it back.

Carol

Deanne Dale on fri 4 mar 05

--0-1881576903-1109943577=:16092

That's awful, and who would think to ask whether the animal providing the wool had been wandering through poison oak. It's hard to avoid that kind of exposure. The man who put up my fencing is so allergic to it he said it doesn't matter what he does to get it off his skin or how quickly.

Deanne

MLuskin wrote:
I once had a mohair fleece for spinning into yarn that
was beautiful, but I got poison oak working on it.
The goat whose fleece it was had been into poison oak.
I washed the fleece w/Fels and got PO again, so I got
rid of the fleece. I have lost my faith in Fels
Naphtha and would never deliberately expose myself to
PO.

=====
Merry Luskin, Oakland CA
Reference librarian and handspinner
Great site: Librarians' Index to the Internet
http://lii.org

__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/

--0-1881576903-1109943577=:16092

I once had a mohair fleece for spinning into yarn that
was beautiful, but I got poison oak working on it.
The goat whose fleece it was had been into poison oak.
I washed the fleece w/Fels and got PO again, so I got
rid of the fleece. I have lost my faith in Fels
Naphtha and would never deliberately expose myself to
PO.



=====
Merry Luskin, Oakland CA
Reference librarian and handspinner
Great site: Librarians' Index to the Internet
http://lii.org




__________________________________
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/

Susan Setzler on fri 4 mar 05

Oh wow! I love the scented geraniums, and they are very tender, here
and I don't know the apricot sage, maybe like the pineapple and melon
sages? but they don't winter over here either!!

susan

Carol Jensen on fri 4 mar 05

In Denmark scented geraniums (pelargoniums) are grown as house plants and very popular. I have a couple.

Carol

sarah Rose on mon 7 mar 05

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C5236B.9B947DC0

Deanne,

Have you ever thought of an inground house on the hillside? Don't know =
how expensive it would be though!

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio
You're right, it is better to go slowly, observe and study the land =
before making changes. But then, on the other hand, mine is a hillside =
lot and there is fairly deep erosion in one section that Iooks as though =
it should be addressed ASAP.

There is also a flat sunny area at the top of the lot that's sheltered =
from the strongest winds but still gets breezes, I think a good part of =
the garden may go there. I have entirely stopped reading fiction in =
favor of gardening and home-building books!

Deanne

------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C5236B.9B947DC0



content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1>



style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 10px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; =
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Deanne Dale on tue 8 mar 05

--0-338956263-1110295751=:49522

Hi Sallie,

We did talk about that, in a way. There is already plateau - either cut into the hillside a long time ago, or an existing level area which was graded, where the house will probably go, because it's closest to the utilities at the street and to some degree I'm going to have to use public utilities. As little as possible, though, is the plan. My landlord - who is a contractor - and I were talking about backing the house against the hillside at the back of that plateau, for insulation etc. He said it can be complicated here where it rains so much in winter, making sure the water doesn't seep into the house, and it seems to me there might be structural engineering issues because the road is not far above and just behind where the back wall would be.

There is such a learning curve involved here - for me, anyway. And an amazing array of decisions to be made, but at least I'm working with someone who promotes passive solar designs and green building practices and doesn't think I'm nuts for wanting to be as off-grid as possible.

Deanne

sarah Rose wrote:
Deanne,

Have you ever thought of an inground house on the hillside? Don't know how expensive it would be though!

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio
You're right, it is better to go slowly, observe and study the land before making changes. But then, on the other hand, mine is a hillside lot and there is fairly deep erosion in one section that Iooks as though it should be addressed ASAP.

There is also a flat sunny area at the top of the lot that's sheltered from the strongest winds but still gets breezes, I think a good part of the garden may go there. I have entirely stopped reading fiction in favor of gardening and home-building books!

Deanne

--0-338956263-1110295751=:49522

Deanne,

 

Have you ever thought of an inground house on the hillside?  Don't know how expensive it would be though!

 

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio

You're right, it is better to go slowly, observe and study the land before making changes.   But then, on the other hand, mine is a hillside lot and there is fairly deep erosion in one section that Iooks as though it should be addressed ASAP.  

 

There is also a flat sunny area at the top of the lot that's sheltered from the strongest winds but still gets breezes, I think a good part of the garden may go there.  I have entirely stopped reading fiction in favor of gardening and home-building books!   

 

Deanne

 

sarah Rose on sat 12 mar 05

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C5273D.1A0439A0

That's good that you have someone like that to help you. It may be a =
little more expensive to start with but could save a lot in the long =
run. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio (where winter is refusing to go away. Snow =
showers and cold for another week! ugh!!!)

There is such a learning curve involved here - for me, anyway. And an =
amazing array of decisions to be made, but at least I'm working with =
someone who promotes passive solar designs and green building practices =
and doesn't think I'm nuts for wanting to be as off-grid as possible.
Deanne

------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C5273D.1A0439A0



content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1>



style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 10px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; =
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none"
leftMargin=0 topMargin=0 acc_role="text" CanvasTabStop=3D"true"
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Sue Jennings on sun 13 mar 05

--0-469302203-1110777326=:84347

For all of you in the cold and snow. Sue, Plant Spirit Herbals in sunny No. Calif.

"Only with winter-patience can we bring the deep-desired,
long-awaited spring." ~ Anne Morrow Lindbergh

sarah Rose wrote:
That's good that you have someone like that to help you. It may be a little more expensive to start with but could save a lot in the long run. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio (where winter is refusing to go away. Snow showers and cold for another week! ugh!!!)

There is such a learning curve involved here - for me, anyway. And an amazing array of decisions to be made, but at least I'm working with someone who promotes passive solar designs and green building practices and doesn't think I'm nuts for wanting to be as off-grid as possible.
Deanne

--0-469302203-1110777326=:84347

"Only with winter-patience can we bring the deep-desired, 
long-awaited spring."   ~ Anne Morrow Lindbergh

That's good that you have someone like that to help you.  It may be a little more expensive to start with but could save a lot in the long run.  Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

 

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio (where winter is refusing to go away.  Snow showers and cold for another week! ugh!!!)

 

 

There is such a learning curve involved here - for me, anyway.  And an amazing array of decisions to be made, but at least I'm working with someone who promotes passive solar designs and green building practices and doesn't think I'm nuts for wanting to be as off-grid as possible.

Deanne

Deanne Dale on mon 14 mar 05

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I remember that weather. I grew up near Chicago and my parents loved the cold, so the house was always cold inside as well - which is why I've lived in temperate parts of California ever since. No more freezing temperatures while indoors!

Deanne

sarah Rose wrote:
That's good that you have someone like that to help you. It may be a little more expensive to start with but could save a lot in the long run. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio (where winter is refusing to go away. Snow showers and cold for another week! ugh!!!)

There is such a learning curve involved here - for me, anyway. And an amazing array of decisions to be made, but at least I'm working with someone who promotes passive solar designs and green building practices and doesn't think I'm nuts for wanting to be as off-grid as possible.
Deanne

--0-1854171890-1110813094=:85739

That's good that you have someone like that to help you.  It may be a little more expensive to start with but could save a lot in the long run.  Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

 

Sallie - Zone 6 - SW Ohio (where winter is refusing to go away.  Snow showers and cold for another week! ugh!!!)

 

 

There is such a learning curve involved here - for me, anyway.  And an amazing array of decisions to be made, but at least I'm working with someone who promotes passive solar designs and green building practices and doesn't think I'm nuts for wanting to be as off-grid as possible.

Deanne

Deanne Dale on mon 14 mar 05

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Actually my father completely insulated the house I grew up in, and restored it, but they just liked it cold inside - AC on high in the summer and heat on low in the winter. Comfortable to them, freezing to me, it's all subjective. But being cold for so long sent me straight to the west coast!

Deanne

James Allan wrote:
I can feel comfortable in my house at 65 as long as there is no wind
outside. Anything over ten miles an hour, I can feel the draft and
the windows are covered with plastic on the inside. How do you
convince an educated person that is sending more dollars out when he
believes the cost of repair would be greater than the savings Mind
you this condition has gone on for over ten years.. Especially since
the person does his own carpentry quite well and would do the repairs
himself.

--0-1866372587-1110849490=:27142

I can feel comfortable in my house at 65 as long as there is no wind
outside. Anything over ten miles an hour, I can feel the draft and
the windows are covered with plastic on the inside. How do you
convince an educated person that is sending more dollars out when he
believes the cost of repair would be greater than the savings Mind
you this condition has gone on for over ten years.. Especially since
the person does his own carpentry quite well and would do the repairs
himself.

On 14 Mar 2005 at 7:11, Deanne Dale wrote:

> I remember that weather. I grew up near Chicago and my parents loved
> the cold, so the house was always cold inside as well - which is why
> I've lived in temperate parts of California ever since. No more
> freezing temperatures while indoors!
>
> Deanne
>

james allAn on mon 14 mar 05

I can feel comfortable in my house at 65 as long as there is no wind
outside. Anything over ten miles an hour, I can feel the draft and
the windows are covered with plastic on the inside. How do you
convince an educated person that is sending more dollars out when he
believes the cost of repair would be greater than the savings Mind
you this condition has gone on for over ten years.. Especially since
the person does his own carpentry quite well and would do the repairs
himself.

james allAn on tue 15 mar 05

Give the lady a cigar. She will probably smoke it to:>)

Carol Jensen on tue 15 mar 05

You referring to the famous son, Jim? Carol

james allAn on tue 15 mar 05

I think I answered this before, but after todays problems, I don't
trust anything just yet.
Yep, that's the guy alright. Eventually he plans to remodel my
apartment. I will suggest he first seal the windows or replace them.
I pestered him for a couple years trying to get him to zone control
the heat with my place being one zone. It used to average 80 in here
all winter because the heat was controlled only by the one
thermostat. Now with zoning I can keep it where I want, Which is
close to seventy. How much money do you think that saved? Lowering
the temp in here from 80 plus to seventy.