------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
My son waits for the village to drop dirt it has to get rid of nearby. Meanwhile I have 5 big piles of dirt to mow around. Might be years before there is enough to get a dozer in to level it. As to the apple trees one load there would need to be leveled by hand anyway. It's stupid because every load that comes in goes in the field not near the trees. I could probably take care of the trees before any dirt gets put there. I estimate three seasons to fill the depression. Maybe a good fast starting grass would make him happy with my slow filling in. Maybe I could grow and cut sod to cover the compost I use for fill. I am preparing an area of the railroad bank near the garden for green manure. Maybe I should use it for grass sod around the trees. I Wonder what grass would take to transplanting best in my area.
James Allan
jallan6977@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves the almighty dollar
I just re-read this post and have a question. By shoots, do you mean the entire branch back to the trunk of the tree. If so, that makes sense and should make identification easier.
Hi Jim
Depending on how thick those trees still are, it might yet be main shoots which need reducing further. These big branches should ideally have close to foot of clear space all round them. if they are too crowded together they will be likely to harbour pests and diseases and in any case their leaves and fruits will be too crowded to get enough light.
What I had in mind though was looking at the main branches and taking off some of their side shoots so that they are not too close spaced. Just as when removing a main stem these should be cut right back to their origins and no stumps left, or they will be right back.
Starting from the base of a branch, where it meets the trunk, I would remove entirely any side shoot coming out in its first 1 1/2 -2 feet. Moving on from the lowest remaning shoot I should then cut out enough of its fellows to leave a spacing of at least a foot between each . If course as one approaches the tip of the branch the side shoots will get smaller and smaller and right near the top there won't be anything to remove anyway. The main thing you want to achieve is to clear the lower and most shaded parts of the tree so it concentrates on bearing its crop on the outer younger wood where the fruits will get both a good sap supply and also plenty of light.
My son is still wanting to kill the tree by adding a foot of dirt right up to the trunk. Oh well You can't teach the young, they know it all. I wish I could convince him to let me raise the ground in that area by four inches each year the right way.
He seems to be talking more than doing so far. What chance that he will not actually get round to it??
Moira
------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8
----- Original Message -----From: Tony and MoiraTo: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDUSent: 10/13/2005 9:09:48 PMSubject: Re: Thinning out an apple tree (was OT outhouse express etc.)----- Original Message -----From: James AllanTo: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDUSent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 7:41 AMSubject: Re: OT outhouse express etc.I just re-read this post and have a question. By shoots, do you mean the entire branch back to the trunk of the tree. If so, that makes sense and should make identification easier.Hi JimDepending on how thick those trees still are, it might yet be main shoots which need reducing further. These big branches should ideally have close to foot of clear space all round them. if they are too crowded together they will be likely to harbour pests and diseases and in any case their leaves and fruits will be too crowded to get enough light.What I had in mind though was looking at the main branches and taking off some of their side shoots so that they are not too close spaced. Just as when removing a main stem these should be cut right back to their origins and no stumps left, or they will be right back.Starting from the base of a branch, where it meets the trunk, I would remove entirely any side shoot coming out in its first 1 1/2 -2 feet. Moving on from the lowest remaning shoot I should then cut out enough of its fellows to leave a spacing of at least a foot between each . If course as one approaches the tip of the branch the side shoots will get smaller and smaller and right near the top there won't be anything to remove anyway. The main thing you want to achieve is to clear the lower and most shaded parts of the tree so it concentrates on bearing its crop on the outer younger wood where the fruits will get both a good sap supply and also plenty of light.My son is still wanting to kill the tree by adding a foot of dirt right up to the trunk. Oh well You can't teach the young, they know it all. I wish I could convince him to let me raise the ground in that area by four inches each year the right way.He seems to be talking more than doing so far. What chance that he will not actually get round to it??Moira
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0085_01C5CFEF.01658150
----- Original Message -----
From: James Allan
To: OGL@LSV.UKY.EDU
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: OT outhouse express etc.
I just re-read this post and have a question. By shoots, do you =
mean the entire branch back to the trunk of the tree. If so, that makes =
sense and should make identification easier.
Hi Jim
Depending on how thick those trees still are, it might yet be main =
shoots which need reducing further. These big branches should ideally =
have close to foot of clear space all round them. if they are too =
crowded together they will be likely to harbour pests and diseases and =
in any case their leaves and fruits will be too crowded to get enough =
light.
What I had in mind though was looking at the main branches and taking =
off some of their side shoots so that they are not too close spaced. =
Just as when removing a main stem these should be cut right back to =
their origins and no stumps left, or they will be right back.
Starting from the base of a branch, where it meets the trunk, I would =
remove entirely any side shoot coming out in its first 1 1/2 -2 feet. =
Moving on from the lowest remaning shoot I should then cut out enough of =
its fellows to leave a spacing of at least a foot between each . If =
course as one approaches the tip of the branch the side shoots will get =
smaller and smaller and right near the top there won't be anything to =
remove anyway. The main thing you want to achieve is to clear the lower =
and most shaded parts of the tree so it concentrates on bearing its crop =
on the outer younger wood where the fruits will get both a good sap =
supply and also plenty of light.
My son is still wanting to kill the tree by adding a foot of dirt =
right up to the trunk. Oh well You can't teach the young, they know it =
all. I wish I could convince him to let me raise the ground in that =
area by four inches each year the right way.
He seems to be talking more than doing so far. What chance that he =
will not actually get round to it??
Moira
------=_NextPart_000_0085_01C5CFEF.01658150
