Hello all....I am finishing up my seed orders today...and am trying to figure out
what measures to take to control insect damage and weeds this year...In my
catalogue are several different products that I would like your opinions
on....before I send in my order...
BTK insecticide...(safe and enviromentally friendly pest control)...does this harm
beneficials?...and then there's rotenone....does this hurt beneficials?...and the
PTV...insecticide/fungicide for insects and blight...carbaryl and copper....
The really interesting one is the "No Hoe"...("Hoe around plants once, apply No
Hoe, and have a weed free summer")...hmmm...
Please help me figure this all out...I'd rather pick off worms again, than apply
harmful products...
One interesting thing I saw last year...the enormous bumper crop of happy ladybugs
feeding on the aphids that were feeding on my carrot tops...dozens and dozens of
ladybugs...(lots of aphids...!!)...the carrots were great anyway, and the ladybug
population soared in my garden...
And that straw mulch I plan on using extensively...will it harbour alot of bad
insects?....
I would like my garden life to be as natural as possible...and am trying to
encourage beneficials rather than kill off everything just because it's a
BUG!!!...
I'm waiting with order in hand....
Thanks to all who give such wonderful, detailed replies...you've taught me alot in
a shot time...
Kim....(still waiting for spring...altho it's today, at approx. 5:00pm...tell that
to the snowstorm... :0(...)
--
Kim Cook ICQ#3987340
Prince Edward Island, Canada zone 5
mailto:kim.cook@pei.sympatico.ca
Kim,I recommend you make insecticide choices based on decisions from
companies like
Arizona Biological Control, Inc.
Network.
I trust them. I do not trust seed companies that sell synthetic
insecticides, herbicides, and other petrochemical based chemicals and
fertilizers, or genetically-engineered seeds.
Susan Snow
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Susan Snow wrote:
I would like to recommend to Kim and again to anyone with a large size
home or market garden to read The New Organic Grower by Eliot Coleman,
especially the two sections on Pests.
The first section talks about the role of insects in nature, and the
fact that well-grown plants in a mixed culture are not susceptible to
insect peests. This is the goal to strive for.
The second chapter is on palliative treatment of pests when necessary.
(From the Latin "pallium" or cloak) Coleman offers fine advice on
various pests and materials, has extensive footnotes, and is a Northeast
gardener like myself and Kim, Drea and some others.
Unfortunately the sources Susan gives are American and don't do the
Canada thing. There are Canadian sources of beneficial biocontrols as
well. But before importing critters to your land that may not really be
well adapted, it is best to 'wait and see'--as with your carrot aphids,
local ladybug rescue squads can handle lots of problems, and improved
growing conditions (and better weather too!) can give plants the
conditions they need to thrive in spite of pests.
As far as 'No-Hoe' is concerned, I go with Mama Nature's no-hoe--it's
called mulch! :-)
BTK, on the other hand, is bacillus thuringiensis kustaki, the butterfly
killer. Actually it kills feeding caterpillars. For cole crops like
broccoli and cabbage, it is useful and relatively low harm; other
options include row covers and dusts like basalt or DE.
Frank--saying save your dough, go with the flow, just say no, to the
salesmen's show.
Frank wrote:
And, I agree. I did not mean to imply that you should jump into
insecticides, herbicides or other less natural controls. It is my
understanding that the quality of the soil is premier to warding off
future pests, as (of course) are natural controls like lady bugs (lady
bird beetles), preying mantis, and other beneficials. IF that does not
work, then try trustworthy companies that do NOT use genetically
engineered crops or synthethic pesticides.
Speaking of Lady Bugs: I read recently (and if I've already posted this,
forgive me) that genetically engineered organisms are harming the
reproduction of Lady Bugs in Scotland.
http://www.natural-law.ca/genetic/GENews10-25Ladybug.html
I urge you to contact the USDA here on the proposed national organic
program rules, lest we not have any Lady Bugs to help ward off aphids.
Susan
Frank Teuton wrote:
> As far as 'No-Hoe' is concerned, I go with Mama Nature's no-hoe--it's
> called mulch! :-)
I wonder.....I was just reading my favorite magasine...this month's (April)
OG...(super issue!!)...about corn gluten meal cutting weed production...It
says.."prevents seedlings from growing new roots and kills them within a
few days"...
Maybe this is the main ingredient of this "No Hoe"??...interesting
idea...The corn gluten meal also provides 10% nitrogen...
It goes on to say...
"Researchers at Iowas State U found that appling CGM one time-before weeds
emerged- reduced the survival rates of dandelions, crabgrass, annual
bluegrass, buckhorn plantain, curly dock, pruslane, lambsquaters, and
redroot pigweed by an average of 60%...After several years, the corn gluten
meal provides as much as 90% control."
It also says "Remember to use only on established lawns...it will kill
newly sprouted turfgrass"...so...could you use it on a garden that's
already established?...or near seedlings that are not too young?...sounds
...Interesting, to say the least...
Anyone?...
Kim.
--
Kim Cook ICQ#3987340
Prince Edward Island, Canada zone 5
mailto:kim.cook@pei.sympatico.ca
Kim Cook wrote:
Hi Kim,
Yep, could be corn gluten meal in No-Hoe. Yep, does inhibit germination
and root growth in new seedlings; thus not for direct seeded
anything....not inexpensive but has fertilizer value, as you say.
I'm not a big fan of corn production or really, any open field annual
production and that which we do I feel should be more for really
necessary human consumption. The argument is best put forward in Wes
Jackson's New Roots for Agriculture, which focuses on the search for
perennial grain crops.
If you want to keep weeds down in an open soil environment, the wheel
hoe should make short work of your 5000 sq ft, Johnny's Selected Seeds
has the Real brand with a wooden handle. The Real stirrup hoe
attachments are the best (and the same holds true for single handled
tools, stirrups are best and Real is a very good brand) Lee Valley also
has this tool.
I still hold that carbon rich mulch applied after the soil has warmed up
is the best way to control weeds. Weed free or near free mulches include
wood chips, straw, paper, leaves and well-composted materials. That
limits the need to cultivate to the springtime.
Eliot Coleman's New Organic Grower (revised and expanded edition) gives
the argument for weed control especially in the first several years of
garden establishment. My own experience tells me that an old hayfield
will carry for some time a substantial load of weed seed, so especially
if you are turning the soil much, expect to spend energy to control
weeds for a while. "One year's seeding gives seven year's weeding," and
all that. There will be some perennial survivors and these must be
stayed on top of, especially Agropyron repens, the evil couchgrass, or
as Quebec farmers call it, chien dent (dog tooth--it doesn't let go!
;->)
The upside of couchgrass is it is slug-icidal. Also a high protein food
for ungulates, but has to be managed differently than the usual Kentucky
bluegrass--white clover pasture, where the frequent grazing pattern will
subdue or eliminate it, another eradication technique for those with
access to grazing animals (could be your neighbor's).
Frank--Recommends Coleman's eloquent prose, his waxed elephant is
shinier'n mine :-> (Geez, I'll be picked up the Pun Police's special
squad on obscure wit fer that--wax eloquent for a waxed
elephant--polished pachyderm pushed me into it...critical hippos and
righteous rhinos will decide my fine old fate...hope I don't grate...
